I recently travelled to Korea in December 2003. This was my second visit to this beautiful country and once again it did not fail to surprise my every sense. My first experience of Korea was in June 2002 during the FIFA World Cup Korea/ Japan. I was situated in Seoul and had no opportunity to visit more of the country, time restrictions meant remaining in the capital to watch games and party with the millions of ‘Be the Reds’ Korean fans who made the tournament so special. Therefore, having the opportunity to visit Korea in 2003 was something I was not going to miss.

Seoul is a city that you simply will not tire of, as there is always something going on day and night. The city sprawls for miles into the distance and the Seoul Tower at the top of Namsan Park provides the perfect vantage point to witness this. By day, one can follow the Han River meandering out of sight and by night the city lights provide a wonderful backdrop to a meal in the revolving restaurant. There is a cable car at the foot of Mount Namsan that is ready to whisk you to the tower, but in my opinion a walk through this huge park is the preferable way to reach the summit, so that you can fully appreciate the vista along the way.

The city is so big that there are new areas to discover and paths to tread. The landmark sites are visible around the city and are worth visiting in all seasons, but don’t forget the little teas houses hidden away in Insadong Street. This thoroughfare is famous for selling traditional arts, crafts and is a training ground for street musicians and entertainers.

The World Cup Stadium still hosts major football matches, but the Koreans are too dynamic to let such a facility be used totally for one purpose. A shopping and entertainment complex is now proving a hit with Seoulites. Koreans work hard, but also play hard and this is reflected in the variety of activities available throughout the city and country.

The heart of Seoul pumps loudly through the streets of Jogno, Myeongdong and Itaewon. These areas are vibrant, energetic and popular with young Koreans who fill the busy neon lit streets. One can indulge in western or traditional Korean food, visit a variety of bars & clubs which includes Karaoke or simply sample the traditional Korean snacks sold by street vendors. A not to be missed event for one evening is ‘Korea House’, built in the traditional style and serving a banquet of meat and vegetables that have been seasoned with garlic and red peppers, scallions, soy sauce, fermented bean paste, ginger and sesame oil. The highlight of an evening at ‘Korea House’ is the theatre style performance charting Korean history and culture through dance and music.

The city lives under the gaze of magnificent skyscrapers which tower above the cities residents, but long before the giants of the 20th century arrived, Seoul was the preserve of the Joseon Dynasty. Dongdaemun and Namdaemun gates and five major palaces namely, Gyeonbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung and Gyeonghuigung, still stand as a proud testament to a bygone era and still bring an oasis of calm to a city with a population of 11 million.