Korea’s southern Buan City, located in the Jeollabuk-do Province is starting to gain recognition as a visitor destination, as more and more people recognize the city as the main setting in the popular Korean television miniseries, Immortal Admiral Yi Sun-sin.
The television drama, which was produced by KBS in a 100-episode series has a budget of more than KW 35 billion, and retraces the steps of the beloved Korean military leader, Admiral Yi. Because of the popularity of the series, visitors are heading south to walk in the Admiral’s footsteps.

Born in Hanyang (now Seoul) in 1545, Admiral Yi entered government service at the age of 32. After the Imjin War (a war between Korea and Japan) broke out in 1592, he made many great contributions in numerous naval battles against the Japanese invaders. With his outstanding war strategies, he has emerged as the most resourceful and respected military leaders of the Joseon Dynasty.

Buan Attractions

Lake Buan
Lake Buan, which was created with the construction of Buan Dam, draws out an image of peacefulness and mystery set amongst the uniquely shaped rocks of Naebyeonsan Mountain.

Getting There: From National Road 30, there is a road following the shores of the lake. The round-trip drive takes approximately 20 minutes.

Jeokbyeokgang River
The Jeokbyeokgang River (in Korean, ‘jeok’ means red and ‘byeok’ cliff) has been likened to Chibi (Red Cliff) of the upper stream of the Yangtze River in China and was the site of the outdoor filming location of a Chinese Ming Dynasty encampment. Even though most of the sets were removed after the filming in this area was completed, an observation tower and a few other structures can still be seen. The panoramic view of the river from the observation tower is spectacular.

Getting There: The river is inside Mt. Byeonsan Peninsula National Park

Chaeseokgang Cliff & Gyeokpo Harbor
The origin of the name Chaeseokgang comes from the Chinese story of Lee Tae-baek who, while drinking wine on a boat, saw the moon reflected in the river and jumped into the water to grab it. Chaeseokgang resembles the Chinese equivalent of this location and therefore adapted the name. The cliff looks like a horizontal stack of tens of thousands of books, a masterpiece of nature’s stratification that commands a scenic view. The cliff is accessible from morning until 4 pm when the water recedes. In the evening, visitors can see the blazing red color of the setting sun. Visitors can also walk up to the end of the breakwater at Gyeokpo Harbor, where the turtle ship and Japanese ships used in the miniseries are anchored.

Getting There: Chaeseokgang is part of Mt. Byeonsan Peninsula National Park.

Gunghang
Expanding over a major land area of 16,500 square meters with the sea to its left and mountains to its right, Jeolla Jwasuyeong commands a particularly beautiful scenic view of the coastline. The Hansando Island’s water pavilion, which appeared in Admiral Yi’s famous three-verse poem, In the night when moonlight shines on Hansando Island, will be rebuilt here.

About Jeolla Jwasuyeong
During the Joseon Dynasty, Jeolla Jwasuyeong was the site of the provincial naval base in charge of the defense of the eastern parts of Jeolla-do Province. In those times, there were 2 military bases each in Jeolla-do and Gyeongsang-do provinces, where the Japanese invasions were most frequent and severe. Such bases were under the leadership of a commanding officer in charge of the navy. The naval bases securing the eastern and western parts of the province were called Jwasuyeong (‘jwa’ means ‘left’) and Usuyeong (‘u’ means ‘right’) respectively.

Getting There: From National Road 30 in the direction of Gunghang, take the unpaved road to the right. You will see the Jeolla Jwasuyeong filming area.

Buan Movie Theme Park
The Movie Theme Park in Buan is a multi-movie production complex spanning an area of 75,900 square meters and representing an investment of 19 billion won from Buan-gun County, Jeollabuk-do Province, and KBS Art Vision. The park accommodates numerous set locations including Gyeongbokgung Palace (built to 85% of its real size), the Oriental Medicine Village (where the TV miniseries Man of the Sun, Lee Je-ma was filmed), houses of high-ranking officials with 99 kans (kan is a room), commoner’s houses, a marketplace, ponds and other sets used in the production of historical dramas. A large part of the episodes were filmed at this production location. The park will be opened to the public from early November.

Getting There: From Gyeokpo Harbor, go towards the Gunghang concourse of three streets and turn to the left.

Information: 011 (822 63) 580-4712

The sets for a Joseon military base and a Japanese military base are also under construction on Wido Island.

Transportation to Buan
By car: From Seoul, take Seohaean Express highway and exit at Buan I.C. (towards downtown Buan) or Julpo I.C. (in the direction of Naesosa Temple). From the I.C., take National Road 30. As you drive from Buan County to Byeonsan, you can see all of the major attractions mentioned above.

Public Transportation: From Seoul Express Bus Terminal, there is an express bus for Buan 15 times a day. The ride takes approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes and the fare is KW 12,200. You can also take a bus from Jeonju Bus Terminal, which is also available 15 times a day. From Buan Bus Terminal, there are regular and deluxe buses leaving for Gyeokpo.

Buan Bus Terminal: (063) 584-2098

Local Food of Buan

Baekhap Clams
Anyone visiting Buan will look for Baekhap clams. These clams are soothingly tasteful, whether served in a soup or porridge. Generally, a soup costs KW 30,000 and porridge KW 6,000. Even if you order porridge, you will be surprised to get a table full of side dishes with all kinds of pickled fish. The 25-year old restaurant ‘Gyehwa Hoegwan’ in Dongjung-ri (063-584-3075) is famous for its porridge.

Jeoneo (Gizzard shad)
If you are in town in October or November, the autumn jeoneo, or gizzard shad, is most recommended. The fish is good either as sashimi or in hot-peppered style, mixed with various vegetables and spices. Also popular is to grill your gizzard shad sprinkled with rough salt and take it with old kimchi. At Suhyeop hoetjip (063-581-2400~1) in Gyeokpo Harbor, you can enjoy raw fish and jeono dishes while enjoying the sea.

Buan Accommodations
There is a sufficient number of accommodation facilities in and around the tourist attractions mentioned above. Getting accommodation should not be a problem unless you are visiting in high-demand seasons.

Byeonsan Pension is already well known through the Internet. Located mid-way between Naesosa Temple and Gyeokpo Harbor, the pension is easy to get to and offers clean facilities. From Gyeokpo Harbor, take National Road 30 in the direction of Julpo I.C. When you reach Sangnok Beach on the right, take a left turn at the Sangnok supermarket corner.
Information: (063) 584- 2885

More Information:

Mt. Byeonsan Peninsula National Park
Admission: Adult KW 1,600 / Youth KW 600 / Children KW 300 (Visit Gyeokpo Beach and Chaeseokgang Cliff / Valid for 1 day)
Information: (063) 583-2064
Buan-gun County Office Tourism Information
Buan-gun County Office (For questions regarding Immortal Admiral Yi Sun-sin)